Despite the distractions of SS24 runways at NYFW & sporadic heatwaves in London of last month (proving once again the city provides little respite from the effects of climate change), we are now beginning to set sights on the time of season where chunky knits and cozy vests take center stage. Queue up a Nora Ephron flick and get ready for sweater weather, baby!!!
First, let’s get a better understanding of the fabrics we’re throwing on – where they come from & why it matters, style suggestions, and caring for them long-term. Stay locked in while I go through some facts (and one figure!), and then we’ll get to the fun stuff.
THE SCOOP ON SWEATERS
“Materials matter. Hugely so. As a single impact category, raw material production is responsible for more emissions than any other in the industry, as much as 38%.” Good on You
Alpaca wool
Indigenous populations in Peru have been wearing alpaca fiber for hundreds of years - these days, the country accounts for 80% of the world’s supply. At least 50,000 families in the Andean highlands rely on herding alpaca to sustain themselves. Alpaca are significantly kinder to the environment than sheep or goats, but there is still potential for negative environmental impact. Hence the table I was so generous as to create below:
Alpaca production is relatively harm-free when it comes to animal rights, thanks in no small part to strict animal welfare standards. That being said, if you’re asking PETA, they’d recommend avoiding wool completely as they believe the process equates to suffering. Suppliers need to be smart about their herding, so we need to be smart about our shopping.
When caring for alpaca wool, remember that it doesn’t need frequent washing! It’s naturally odor resistant and quite airy, which as we know from my most recent post we desperately need from our knitwear. In terms of our personal carbon footprint, it can be washed on cool settings and hung dry – it also recovers from wrinkles quickly so it hardly needs ironing.
If you’re shopping, look for alpaca that is:
Certified Organic
Certified Fair Trade
Naturally colored
Sustainably grazed
Supports local communities
Cashmere
With quiet luxury still circulating in the media thanks in no small part to Sophia Richie Grainge, the allure of cashmere is just par for the course, excuse my country club speak. What’s great for consumers is that it’s more socioeconomically accessible than it used to be…but at what cost?
First, there’s the consideration of waste. Cashmere wool comes from the soft inner coat, which is only a small percentage of a goat’s fleece that is harvested once a year in spring. Once they’re shorn, it’s difficult to separate fine and coarse fibers, so high quality cashmere is usually harvested by hand using a comb. These goats are put to work – a single, uno, eine sweater requires the fleece of four to six goats, while an overcoat uses the fleece of THIRTY TO FORTY. Phew.
Mongolia hosts one of the best environments for fine cashmere, and much like the Peruvians with their alpaca it’s a major cash cow. Unlike the evident urbanization in the rest of the world, the number of nomadic herdsmen in Mongolia is reported to have tripled in the past decade, and in turn, livestock. Unfortunately, this has meant wildlife have been displaced from their natural habitats (and primary food sources) to make way for grazing herds. Historically, production is known to be sensitive, the pendulum of cashmere quality swayed by unpredictable years with drought or harsh winters. The UN Development Program found that 90% of Mongolian land is fragile and on the brink of desertification.
The greater demand in recent years has caused cashmere suppliers to struggle keeping up, and keeping prices low. An uptick in herd populations, coupled with grasslands in decline, results in malnourished goats. If that doesn't make you sympathetic, what if I said it makes your sweet sweet cashmere coarse? Are you listening now?
Cashmere should be a renewable resource, since goats can provide multiple years worth of fleece and reproduce indefinitely, though the rest of its life cycle offers a heavier counterweight. Given the aforementioned land degradation, overproduction & waste (manure -> methane = unhealthy air, duh), alternative systems need to be introduced to revitalize the land and slow down the prevailing patterns of production and consumption.
For sustainability at home, try hand-washing your cashmere with these tips in mind:
1) wash less & use cool water
2) gently squeeze excess water — don’t stretch or agitate the garment, laying flat to dry
3) avoid chlorine bleach and strong detergents, which can discolor and/or dissolve your garment
Wool
Wool itself is a renewable resource that is biodegradable, but production can have significant negative impacts on the environment and animal welfare. As mentioned above – please don’t forget my table already! – sheep are water & land intensive, which hardly makes it a circular business to run at the industrial level. Wool is natural, but it mustn’t be forgotten that all other aspects of the industry are human-designed and controlled (from a good read The Fallacy of Animal Rights v Plastic Apparel).
Farming practices matter… how the sheep are farmed can impact both the quality and the sustainability of the wool. A variety of systems to produce wool exist, from localized free-range production to massive industrial farms serving capitalism’s beloved multinational corporations [insert sarcastic thumbs up here]. Sheep are usually sheared once a year; alternatively, sheep can be fed or injected with chemicals that make their wool brittle and easy to pull off. Which sounds yucky, because it is. Fire up the PETA sirens!
The cost of wool is quite high, so synthetics are often substituted in for affordability, but their properties aren’t comparable. Wool is naturally odor resistant/relatively stain resistant, so it doesn’t need to be washed as frequently, and is super breathable. If you’re reading this and thinking, how can that be true when my wool jumper isn’t airy…perhaps consider the quality of wool you own!
That being said, BE WARY OF WOOL BLENDS. Fossil fuel-based materials are never cute, for your skin or for the environment. On one end, it’s about reducing market demand for those big oil tycoons, and finding garments that are more biodegradable — therefore reusable down the line — on the other. While polyester and nylon can be hard to avoid*, keep a diligent eye on tags and (as much as possible) skirt past blends that are more than 20% synthetic.
*Like really, really hard to avoid. Even if your tag says 100% organic wool, that may only describe the main part of the cloth; the trimmings, inner lining, and buttons can all be plastic or poly blend.
Now that we’ve covered some ground on the serious bits, let’s get to the notes on style:
BEING AN INDIE KNITWEAR DESIGNER IS AN AUTOMATIC IT GIRL CARD THESE DAYS
And I’ve always said that ;)
In NY, Lindsay Vrocovnik & Ella Emhoff lead the pack of inventive young designers that double as NYFW muses and crocheters of some really cool shit…and really weird shit? Whether or not the pieces loved by relatable nerdcore queen Bella Hadid can work on anyone else is not the point.
Vibrant, abstract mohair cardigans or knit sets made in small batches by a New Yorker “it girl” of a specific niche is influencing I can get on board with. Through their IG, you see their studio, their design sketches, where they source materials, and when the collections drop. It feels more personal, direct; when brands are rushing to reveal or conceal certain aspects of their supply chain, it’s refreshing. Most importantly, they’ve pushed the boundaries of knitwear just a little further outside its conventional position.
House of Sunny have made a name for themselves in the UK knitwear game, the swirling designs central to their brand identity now instantly noticeable on the street. For me, their look books serve as a posh alternative to leisurewear, with furry collars to boot. As an American conscious that most of her athletic garments are culturally not fashionable in London (it’s changing but not in leaps and bounds), it’s an excuse on a Saturday morning walk to the cafe to feel like a bum and only half look like it.
These days, odds are also high your local Depop girly has made a killing on balaclavas and crochet sets. All this to say Gen Z/zillenial trends have shown we’ve put a flag down on the mohair moon and claimed it for our own.
HOW TO STYLE
…providing you inspiration from two frequently-copied style icons + one Londoner trying her best.
Tyler the Creator
Emma Chamberlain
Me! With a foot pop in every mirror selfie!
A final reminder here to take better care of what you already own, shop secondhand if possible, and be mindful of how you shop when you shop new.
Happy sweatering!
Ryann x
You can search for eco-conscious knitwear brands vetted by Good on You at this link.
Your reads are so good! Thank your for sharing info about sustainability and for the styling inspo. On my way to find an indie crochet girl to make me a half shrug with ethical wool now!